What is the difference between direct vent, b vent, totally vented and ventless?
A wood-burning fireplace is totally vented. For a complete explanation of these terms see next.
Cabinets are boxes that extend about 18" from the wall. Mantels are wood frames that only extend about 4" - 6" from the wall.
* B-vent cannot have a cabinet. A b-vent fireplaces must be installed in the wall, allowing all the piping to be hidden. You may then use a mantel.
* Direct vents can have a cabinet if you vent piping out the back.
* Vent-free can have a cabinet.
Vented gas logs can only be used in a wood-burning fireplace. A coal-burning fireplace is too shallow. Vented gas logs are not recommended for a stove due to safety concerns.
Direct vent will give you great looks and a good amount of heat with little moisture. Vent-free will give you lots of heat and good looks but the number one complaint about vent-free is it works too well, or puts off too much heat. If the vent-free is sized correctly to the room, you will not have a problem with heat or moisture.
A wooden structure built around the vent pipe to protect it from the weather and to keep the flue gases venting properly.
A b-vent fireplace is the least efficient venting option and can be vented horizontally or vertically. Direct venting is the most efficient; some are even “heater rated” and can be vented horizontally, vertically or both.
Remote ready means that via the remote (wired or wireless) you can turn the unit on and off which requires a millivolt valve that creates millionths of volts of electricity to control the valve. Remote ready units do not come with a remote because there are up to 20 different kinds of remotes.
No. You have to use the remote that is designed for the high-lo variable logs or fireplaces.
Via the remote, you will be able to raise and lower the height of the flame. The remotes are adjustable as either on off or thermostatically controlled.
No. Because you would have to always leave the damper completely open which means you’d lose $.60 of every heating dollar you put into the house. Therefore, when you want to turn it on, you have to open the damper. So most people just turn it on when they are opening the damper and find the remote unnecessary.
Yes. We suggest that you get a thermostatically controlled remote so that you can keep the room at a comfortable temperature and so you can turn the unit on and off. The longest lasting valve and remote are the units that vary the height of the flame.
No. By national code, you cannot convert any vent-free product.
Yes. You can convert natural to propane and propane to natural, but in most cases, you need to buy a new valve. Your manufacturer can provide conversion instructions.
You cannot close your damper at all with vented gas logs while they are burning.
We would recommend that you close the damper as tight as you can and get a Lock-Top damper that seals at the top of the chimney
No, you do not have to reline to wood burning specifications, but you must use the piping that is recommended by the manufacturer, which fits into the existing chimney.
There is sheet metal, black pipe and stainless steel. The advantage of the sheet metal is that it is less expensive. Black pipe is heavier than sheet metal and costs a little more. The disadvantage of both is that they can rust through because they have very little rust protection. Stainless steel costs more, but will not corrode or burn through and it will last a lifetime.
The minimum clearance for wood or b-vent is 3 feet above anything within 10 feet. For direct vent it is 18 inches above anything within 10 feet.
You must use manufacturer-approved piping.
No. If you use some else’s piping and it creates a problem in your house; i.e., a fire or smoke damage, no insurance company will cover you. You will also void the warranty and inspectors will not approve it.
If the crack is bigger than the tip of a graphite pencil, we do not recommend that you burn wood.
An insert is usually a large metal box that fits into the opening of a wood-burning fireplace to increase its efficiency and enhance its look. Gas log sets are made to be hooked up to a gas line to simulate the look of wood logs.
Inserts are designed to enhance the operation and appearance of an existing wood burning fireplace, whether masonry or factory-built. Categorized primarily by the fuel burned for operation (natural gas, propane, EPA certified wood, pellet and coal), a fireplace insert is installed into an existing wood burning fireplace. Fireplace inserts are made from cast iron or steel and have self-cleaning glass doors that allow the dancing flames of the fire to be viewed while the insulated doors remain closed, making the fire more efficient. Many manufacturers also augment the operation of fireplace inserts by offering state-of-the-art features such as fans and thermostatic controls (depending on the fuel).
An insert is designed to be placed into an existing masonry or factory built fireplace.
A fireplace is either masonry (not zero clearance) or factory built (zero clearance) unit built for burning wood or gas.
A zero clearance fireplace is a factory-built fireplace that is constructed so that it can be placed, safely, close to combustible material.
Natural gas is a lighter gas and it takes twice as much of it to get the same BTU rating as propane gas. Liquid propane gas contains 2,500 BTU's per cubic foot, natural gas contains 1000 BTU's per cubic foot. In addition, natural gas comes into your home through a pipeline from a local supplier. Propane is stored in a tank.
The two kinds of logs are vented and vent-free. Within these two types, there are three kinds of materials used to create the logs: molded refractory cement, extruded ceramic clay and molded ceramic fibers. In addition to the logs, each log set generally includes a grate and a burner system.
Cement logs are best on vented units. Extruded logs are cheaper but look like spaghetti. Molded ceramic are more realistic and are best for vent-free.